Fit is our focus. The simple yet complex task of finding the perfect fit for every body type and sense of style. And as new menswear trends emerge, we adapt to meet them head on. Slimmer silhouettes have ruled the landscape for quite some time, but relaxed, roomier looks have gained headway in recent seasons. So how did we combine our better-fitting aesthetic with this up-and-coming trend? By creating the Modern Relaxed Fit, a comfortable silhouette that doesn't compromise tailoring or refinement. To help introduce these new styles to the relaxed-look neophyte, we asked Dwight Fenton, our Chief Creative Officer, a few questions about design inspiration and how to wear them. Here's what he told us.
What is the inspiration behind Modern Relaxed Fit?
The core of what we do still revolves around more tailored looks and fit. But things are loosening up around the edges of menswear currently with relaxed fits showing up in every category from pants to jackets to tee-shirts, so I wanted to translate what we're seeing in an understandable way for our brand and customer.
How is the silhouette supposed to look? How does it fit naturally?
We call it Modern Relaxed Fit, because Relaxed used to be synonymous with Dad Fit (all respect, I'm a dad myself). These new styles aren't simply generously cut—some parts are loose, while others are tapered for a modern look. Take one of my favorites, The E-Waist Wool Trouser: The thighs and hip areas are roomier with an elastic waist and drawstring, but the leg tapers and the inseam is shorter, so the pant hangs around ankle height. For the tops in this category, the shoulder seam is a little dropped from the natural shoulder placement and the neck is a little more open, but the body is still more fitted with a longer length. We even have a topcoat that has a slightly dropped shoulder and longer length.
Is this aesthetic appropriate for any dress code?
It's not really something that has permeated the classic-suit-workplace environment, but I have no doubt it will eventually. Nobody thought Thom Browne suits would crack that barrier, and now, while not ubiquitous, you certainly see them around. As I mentioned, I love our E-Waist Wool Trouser. It's made of our Italian wool suiting fabric, but has an elastic waist and drawstring. For my purposes, it goes everywhere. With a tee-shirt, it's super casual, and with a button-down and blazer, it takes the place of a more classic wool trouser.
How would you avoid looking too baggy or oversized?
While you certainly can, I don't recommend wearing too many Modern Relaxed styles at once. It's best when mixed with the rest of your wardrobe and other fits. However, as I said, this fit isn't about baggy, it's a modern take on Relaxed, so even if you did go all out, it wouldn't look like you shrank.
What advice would you give to those used to a slimmer look? What's a good starting point for easing into the trend?
I was pretty die-hard about our slimmer fits, and they're still a large part of my closet, but I started mixing in the Modern Relaxed pants first and it's a great place to start. They fit more generously, but are cut in a way that still has a great silhouette. Mix them with a more tailored top and you won't feel lost. In the reverse, if I wear The LA Tee, I tend to wear a slimmer bottom, and the topcoat is a great no matter what you have on, making it also a great jumping off point.